There’s no getting round it, The Venetian in Macau is nuts. Brilliant but nuts.
It would be perfectly possible to pass a whole weekend without leaving the confines of the hotel itself, the shopping mall and gigantic casino but with its fake Italian skies and dimming lights reflecting the changes in the time of day, I would be slightly concerned for the mental state of anyone who achieved such a feat. With this very much in mind, E.L., J.M. and I decided that a chilled dinner at Fernandos would be a good pre-emptive strike on our first night in Macau. Fernandos is a bit of an establishment with its laid-back atmosphere and home-cooked feel to the food. One of my friends said that opinions are quite divided: usually, gweilos think it’s great and HK locals can’t see what the fuss is all about. I think the problem for HK locals (who, from my observations, tend not to be red wine fiends) is that Fernandos is as much about the complete relaxation of waiting in the courtyard with a bottle of red wine until a table comes free as it is about the food. It is a fantastic contrast to the craziness of Hong Kong, providing a chilled atmosphere that none of the al fresco restaurants in Hong Kong come close to providing.
By the time we were served (roughly in time for last orders at 9.30pm), we were thoroughly relaxed but close to starving. The clams “Fernando’s style” had been recommended by S.J. and were as good as promised (as well as being generously sized in terms of portion). The other highlight was definitely the beef stew with potatoes, not necessarily for the meat (which was beautifully cooked) but for the sauce which was great for dipping the huge chunks of bread we were given in. I wasn’t so fussed by the prawns fried with garlic which were just not as interesting in comparison with the other two dishes. The cooking was very much “home cooking style” with simplicity at the core and all in all, it was a wonderful way to spend the evening.
Having drunk a few too many cocktails at the Bellini Lounge in The Venetian (watching some extremely miserable-looking people gambling), we decided that we needed something vaguely healthy for lunch. We chose Roka with its emphasis on grilled food but then completely destroyed our good intentions by ordering the all-you-can-eat grilled and tempura option. The food was fantastic, with extremely delicate tempura batter and such variety to the grilled options - from grilled cuttlefish to aubergine, from beef to chicken yakitori. In particular, the miso soup was magnificent, a real highlight. The restaurant itself is beautifully designed with a fantastic white ceiling and a huge central kitchen area, around which you can choose to sit if you want. Even the service was good. Full marks to Roka, particularly at the weekend set lunch prices!
Fernando's
Praia de Hac Sa, 9
Colôane
Tel: +853 2888 2264 (but no reservations - last orders 9.30)
Roka
Venetian Hotel
Tel: +853 2882 5666