The Sofitel Metropole's half-day cookery course was the absolute highlight of my trip to Hanoi. I love to do cookery courses whenever I go on holiday, partly because of the totally useless kitchen facilities in my flat in Hong Kong and partly because my main culinary experiences to-date have been very European-focused. Unlike the excellent cookery school at the Four Seasons in Chiang Mai, the Metropole's course was not hands-on but somehow that didn't seem to affect how much we learnt (or, for that matter, how much we enjoyed it).
The course started with a cyclo trip to the 19-12 Market (a slightly hair-raising experience given the traffic in Hanoi, where traffic lights are really not considered to be much more than street-side decorations). I'm not sure we'd have been brave enough to wander through the wholesale market by ourselves so it was really useful to go with one of the hotel's chefs. You could literally buy everything, from herbs and spices, to freshwater snails and roasted dog. At one point by the spices stall, the chef was trying to convince us that if we included turmeric in our cooking whilst pregnant, the child's skin would be whiter - ummmm, really? That slightly dubious old wives' tale aside, it was fascinating. Apparently the Vietnamese won't buy refrigerated meat or milk because the suspicion is that anything refrigerated won't be as fresh as it should be.
Back at the hotel we were shown how to make six different traditional Vietnamese dishes: Hanoi deep-fried spring rolls, marinated pork grilled in bamboo, steamed ca qua fish with beer and herbs, grilled chicken skewers with lemon leaves, sauteed pumpkin branches with garlic and Vietnamese banana flower salad. Most of the dishes - perhaps with the alternative ingredients they suggested - could be easily done at home. Also, as there were only five of us in the class, we were able to see everything really clearly and to ask as many questions as we liked.
In case we still felt hungry after trying all the different dishes, we ended the course with a buffet lunch at the excellent Spices Garden where they have traditional Vietnamese street food stalls (without the risk of a slightly dodgy stomach!).
Sofitel Metropole Hanoi
15 Ngo Quyen St