My natural instinct is to dislike Hutong on the grounds that it seems, at first look, like a expensive tourist-trap. Time and time again, I have a good meal, yet I don't seem to be able to kick this feeling that it's all a bit of an overpriced affair. This time round, I think I've done it.
The meal, while far from credit-crunch friendly, was superb. We opted for the Michelin Award Set Menu which gave us the advantage of being able to try little bits of everything. One thing I've found about Chinese food is that it can be a bit much unless you have a big group with lots of different dishes you can pick'n'choose from. This tasting menu solved the problem perfectly.
We started with a selection of fresh abalone and coriander salad, scallops with pomelo and green asparagus coated in white sesame. Proving that there is always an advantage to taster plates, all three of us predicted that the scallops would be our favourite item and all three of us decided that the scallops was the most disappointing dish. The abalone was stunning.
Next came boneless cod with fermented beans and chili, and "Ma La" chili prawns fried with Sichuan dried chili and Chinese celery, both of which were superb. The duck with pancakes was equally stunning. Crushed salty fish with kale and "Dan Dan Noodles" with minced pork, peanut sauce and chili soup topped off a fantastic main course section. Normally I find the appetisers the highlight of any meal - they tend to be more interesting, more intricate - but in this case, it was the main courses that impressed.
The only disappointment of the meal was the dessert course. The baked egg tarts were greasy and all rather bland, and the red-bean ice-cream was perfectly pleasant but a little boring.
Was it worth HK$880 a head? Yes, but only for a special occasion. The view across to the island is stunning, the decor atmospheric and the food excellent. Credit crunch friendly it's not but sometimes you have to go crazy...
28/F, One Peking Road
Tel: 34288342
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